Going to Sharm el Sheikh

We got up around 8 am and went to see the Red Sea. It was about 160 km to Sharm el Sheikh. On the way there, we stopped in Dahab and had to pass several check points. In general, the policemen at the check points were friendly and did not check the car. We only had to show few timrd our passports. Around 2 pm we reached our destination – the most tourist place on Sinai – Sharm el Sheikh. More than 30 km of hotels. After one months of travelling in Muslim countries, we felt like at some European sea resort. We went to see the beach and found out that most of the beaches are private and since we do not stay in any hotel, we can not access them, but we managed to do that. Before the sunset, I had my first swim in the Red Sea and was amazed by the beautiful corals and fish. After this nice experience we to meet Agnieszka’s friend Małgosia, who works at the Polish diving center called Nautica. She arranged a nice apartment for us, very close to the sea. It was nice to take a hot shower and sleep in a normal bed.

Going to Egypt

We got up around 8 am. I filled the tanks with fresh water. It comes from a very deep well and supposed to be good for drinking. We use it only for tea and cooking. The sky was still cloudy, but the rain stopped. Our next destination was a sea port in Aquaba.  Egypt is less than 20 km from Jordan, but I would have to drive through Israel. In order to get to Egypt without going through Israel, we had to take a ferry from Aquaba. We got to the harbour around 11 am and found out that the fast ferry boat (1.5 hour) leaves at 1 pm and the slow boat ( 3.5 hours) should leave around 2 pm.  The slow boat was cheaper, so we decided to take it. Since we stayed 1 day more, I had to pay 5 JD for the car and we had to pay 5 JD departure taxes. The boat ticket was 35 USD and I had to pay 175 USD for the car. It would have been much cheaper to go through Israel but then, I could not go back through Syria or Libya. We got on the boat at 1 pm hopping that we will leave soon. At 3 pm I found out that the boat will leave around 5 pm and that we should be in Nuweba (Egypt) at 8:30 pm. It was true and we were happy, after one month, to finally reach Egypt. Getting visa was easy and it cost 10 USD. Bringing the car to Egypt was a bit more complicated. I needed to get Egyptian licence plate, insurance and new car papers. It cost around 120 USD and took 2 hours. The only problem was with my carnet. Because the car is registered to my company, my name was not there. I have showed that it is my company. After some discussion they let me go. Again, nobody checked the inside of my car. The only thing I had to show was the fire extinguisher. Luckily, before I left I bought a new one, which was big enough. We entered Egypt before midnight and spent our first night close to the Hilton Hotel which was well guarded. 

Wadi Rum and the bedouins

Our last stop in Jordan was the Wadi Rum - nice desert. It was less than 100 km and the route was good. We arrived to the tourist center around 9 am and got all the info: we had to pay 2 JD entrance fee and 5 JD for staying over night with our camper. We went to the nearby beduin village. Here we met one young guy and arrange the trip to desert. Our first idea was to take the camels. But we would have to hire another camel for the guide. We decided to take a short camel ride to the spring and than take four hour trip in jeep. Riding camel was easy but not too conformable. I was happy that i do not have to spend the whole day on the top of this desert creature. Our guide / drive had an old Toyota Landcruiser. He told us that he is 29 and is not married and he was very interested to take pictures with Agnieszka. The desert landscape had many colors and beautiful mountains. We had a small picnic with a beduin tea. After the picnic our guide offered us for additional 20JD to go to see few more sites and the sunset. We did not want to pay more money even when he lowered the price t o 15 JD and we told him to leave us in desert near the spring. We were happy to walk back and enjoy the sunset. It was almost dark when new toyota stop and we were asked if we want to go for a ride. Inside were to man (beduins). They spoke very good English and they told us that they come from the village and that they run small business. It was dark when we have stopped in front of a beduin tent. We were greeted by an old beduin and we were t old that he is the head of the family. We sat by the fire and drank beduin coffee and very good tea. We did nit understand the discussion but we felt happy to finally meet the "real" beduins. We were offered bred, olives and olive oil. The beduin run out of the battery for his flashlight and asked if i have some spare batteries. I did not have any but I gave him my dynamo flashlight which does not need any battery. He was quite happy and offered us t o stay over night. Since we had no idea where we are we decide to come back. Before we left i took picture of them. It was very dark and latter I discovered that he was holding in his hand big machine gun. When we cam back to our car our guide was waiting for us. He wanted to invite us to his home. we were quite tired so we invited him for our tea and I printed few pictures for him. He was very happy especially for the one with Agnieszka and offered us free desert ride next time we come. It was raining all night. We were quite lucky to experience rain in desert.

Petra mountain walk

There was a free Internet at the visitor center so we checked our emails and find out that there was a big storm in Europe and that many people died. It was a firs new from Europe in almost one month since we left. There was still al lot to see in Petra. I printed few pictures of the beduin kids and the kids with mules taxes. In the theatre we met the sister of one guy I med pictures of and soon he came with his Michael jakson. I gave him the picture and hi was happy and offered us a free ride. We arrange to take us to small Petra in the evening. letter we met his very quite small sister and mother selling some rocks. We visited the Byzantine church with very nice mosaics of animals and we stoped at lunch in a empty coffee place. It was very to lay down and I was getting lazy to clime up the monastery. Soon a guy who was selling the send art bottles in the church appeared and we started to talk. he told us that he has bend working at the in the church site for 13 years and he helped with the excavation. He was happy to find out that Agnieszka is form Poland and told us that he has been working wioth one polish Archeoliogist and he could speak few words in Polish. He told us that his brother works the Monastery and invited us to his house in the beduin village for a tea in the evening. He came back in 5 minutes and told us that there are not too many tourists and that he will come with us and show us the way. He spoke very good English and we were very happy to find such a good guide. As we were climbing up to the monastery he told us that he has not been there for six months. On the way he met many of his friends and relatives selling jewelry. He told us that he has been married , but
after 10 years he has divorced and he has 2 small kids with his new wife. In the monastery we had a nice tea with his brother and friends. After this nice rest on the top of the mountain he led us to the beduin village through the very nice mountain route. It was very nice walk with not tourists only beautiful view on the surrounding mountains. The last part of the route we were driving on the pickup truck with a goat. We got tea and food and went to see how hi makes the sand art. He told us that he has been doing the sand bottles for almost 20 years.
Everyday after he comes back from his work at the church he makes 30-50 bottles. He showed us this old art and made four very nice glass bottles for us. We walk to our home and were happy for this new experience.

Exploring Petra

At 8 am we were ready to explore the ancient Nebetan city Petra. We bought the two days pas for 26 JD ( 35 USD). The one days pass costs 21 JD, but one day is not enough to explore this big city Petra is the number one touristic attraction in Jordan and tourism is important for the locals - mostly beduins. They are offering rides on camels, horses, mulls or chariots and selling souvenirs. Since there are not too many tourists in January they are quite desperate. We were happy to walked and did not take any offers for very cheap the animal rides. It is quite hard to describe what this site looks like. It was build by Nebetans in ??? BC as their capital. They have controlled the important caravan routes. Im more than 500 years they have carved inside the sand stone many churches and thumbs. Most of them were very well preserved. The who city is berried in the canyons. After 3 km walk we have reached the Treasury with very well preserved carved pillars and portals. We decided to see the high sacrifice place and climbed up the mountains. On the way up we met few very young guys offering mule rides. The all spoke very good English and told us names of their "air-conditioned" four leg taxis. One was called Michael Jackson. I made few pictures of them and we told them that we do not have much many and that we are very happy to walk up. They replied "no money no honey" and we left them behind waiting for more lazy and rich tourists. On the way up we met several beduin girls trying to sell us some jewelry. We were quite good not buying anything for the "very good price". On the top we were joined by a young boy. He showed us a way to the sacrifice place and on the way back managed to sell us one nice necklace. It was getting late and we did not see much yet. As we went down we met few beduins and their goats. One small girl told us "come come" and took us the the place where they live.It was one cave house. They had about 20 goats and few nice kids were running around. The sun light was very nice and the kids very quite so I took few pictures. We found out that they have been living there for 10 years. On the way back we met few polish which were traveling from Egypt. We were quite happy that we can travel ourself and not with some organize tour. We were quite tired and so we decided to take the last 1 km a horse. The regular price was 7 JD but we got it for 1 JD. I went i bit but the horse was only walking so I let it to Agnieszka who is good horse rider. It was not much faster. The owner of the horse sat also onthe horse and drowe away with Agnieszka. It was not too far to the entrance, but I could not see Agnieszka. I was getting a bit worried, but I found them in the horse hospital. We met there another guy who told us that he just came back from Europe. He invited us for coffee and told us that we can meet latter and make fire in some cave. We went back to the car and made dinner. He cam around 8 but we were too tired after te whole day walking and we stayed in the car and went sleep.