Thursday, February 22

Palestinian family and Jerusalem

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Since I was talking to Said until 3 am I woke up 8 and run for the breakfast. They told me that the breakfast is only until 8. After the breakfast I went to see one more time the Nativity church and sat down in the cave where Jesus was born. I was there alone only with one Franciscan monk from Lebanon. It was very nice quiet and peaceful. When the tourist came in I went to see the other caves. When I got out of the church it was already 1!:30 the time when I was supposed t o meet with Nour and go with him to visit his family in a nearby Palestinian village. I went to buy some sweets for the kids and as I got out of the shop I met Nour and his kids. Hi took me with his 1981 Peugeot 304 to his home. His village is about ( km from Bethlehem and about 10 km from Jerusalem. As we drove to his home I saw the fences and walls surrounding Jerusalem. He told me that the Israelis have build them 2 years ago and since than they can not go to visit Jerusalem. Nour is 45 and he is a biology teacher in the local high school. He has 5 kids, 3 daughters and 2 sons. His family comes from the village and most of his relatives live in the village. The house of the parents was the 1st house build in the village in 1948. His wife is also a teacher. r a tea we went to see Marsaba. There is an old monastery and the Muslims believe that the Jesus was born in this walleye. It was a very nice place and I made a lot of pictures of his beautiful kids. When we came home I had a nice lunch and we talk about the difficult situation in Palestine. He told me that since Hammas came to government they cut out his salary and that the life is more difficult than before. The Palestinians can not go and work in Israel or Jerusalem and Israelis control the water and energy. It was very nice to spend the day with the family and experience a little bit the life. He took me to the Israeli checkpoint which goes to Jerusalem. I was again quite shocked when I saw the 9 m concrete walls and had to pass through scary security passage. Outside I found a small buss which took me to Jerusalem. On the bus I met 2 Australian girls who are living in Jerusalem. I when to the Damascus gate in the old town and find the Palm hostel. I was lucky to get a place. It is only 25 Sik with free vegetarian breakfast and Internet. It was already dark when I went to explore the old town. Most of the stores were already closed but it was nice t o walk in the old city. I met few Palestinians and they were again very friendly. When I was passing a nearby restaurant I was Invited to join Palestinian family at dinner. Since I was not very hungry I took only ice cream. They were from some town which I did not know. Before I left the restaurant I had a nice talk with a men who works in the restaurant. He told me that his wife is Croatian and that he hopes there will be peace soon and that life will be normal again. I came back to the hostel and updated my website.

Wednesday, February 21

Going to Palestine

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The night in the mountains above the Dead sea was good but it was not too easy to get up after the relaxing time in the hot springs. I got the King Hussein bridge about 11:30 and found a good parking place. In order to get to Palestine and Israel I had to take the bus. The Jordanians did not stamp my passport. On the buss I met Sally. Older Palestinian woman. She has been living for 30 years in Chicago and came to visit her family in Ramalah. She told me that it was 7 years ago since she was back and that it is still difficult for her to come back with US passport. After we crossed the bridge we had to leave the buss and show our passport. We arrived at the Palestinian side controlled by Israeli army. They took our luggage and we went for the passport control. There were 4 booths were I saw 3 young girls. There were about 30 people sitting and waiting and the whole atmosphere was a bit depressing and scary. It was not very clear where I should go. After some time they told me t o go to the 1st window. The girl there told me to go to the next window. I had to fill out the entry form and than I came back. First they looked at my new EU passport and checked if it is not fake. Than I was asked again to write name of my fathered and grand father and why is the name of my grandfather the same as my father. I also had to write again my address and show my second passport with Syrian visa. I told that I can not have Israeli stamp in my passport because I have t o drive to Syria. She told me that they will not stamp it and took my passports to some other office. I was afraid that they will stamp it and that I will not be able to drive my car back. I sat down next to 2 young girls and they told me that they are from US and that they have been waiting for a long time. I sad to than that probably every body has to wait and they sad that not everybody. It took me some time to get who does not wait. After some time they called me and the girl wanted t o stamp my new passport. I told her That I do not want any stamps and if I can not go without a stamp that I will go back. She took my passport and came back and stamp only the entry form. We had to go through security check and some people had to enter a very scare caning machine. I was happy that I did not had to be scanned. I found my backpack on the floor. I usually get nervous crossing the borders, but after the nice experiences crossing the boarders in Arab countries where we were always welcomed and felt good I had a very strange feeling. There was know body smiling, talking to me or welcoming, I felt like going back to some closed communist country. After I got out I started to find out the best way t o get to Jerusalem. There was only one bus. I asked some security girl about the possibility to go to Jerusalem and she told me that I should take the mini bus. I asked if it is dangerous to travel to Jericho which was about 10 km. She told me that it is not safe to travel in the Palestine territories and that I should take the minibus to Jerusalem. I asked if she was there and she told me that she can drive her car anywhere in her country. It was a bit strange answer and I decided to take the bus with Palestinians to Jericho. As I was entering the bus a young guy told me "welcome to Palestine" and I knew that it will be ok. He told me that he studies medicine in Jordan but he can travel to Palestine only once in every 2 months. We came to a Jericho and another guy who spoke good English asked if I need any help. I told him that I would like to go to Bethlehem. He took me to the taxi drivers and told them where I need to go. They were very friendly and invited me for a lunch on the grass and asked where I'm from. I found out that most of them drive a very long 6 door old Mercedes. Since the old Mercedes has the best engine for vegetable oil I was trying to explain them that they can use vegetable oil instead of expensive diesel [ 1l of diesel 1 USD] . After some time we were told that we should leave or the Israelis will close the check point and we will have to stay there. I find out that my friend from the bus is going with me in the taxi and there were 3 other people. We had the 6 door taxi so there was enough space. The price from Jericho to Bethlehem was 100 Sik [ 20 SUD] I thought that it is a bit too much but my friend explained that because of the Israeli checkpoints they have to take longer route and that the price is correct. As we drove through very nice hills the life looked quite normal. The left me in front of the Church of the Nativity, the place where Jesus was supposed t be born. As I walk toward the church a young man invited me for coffee. He took me to a gift shop and gave me a good mint tea. I explained to him that I'm interested in gifts but that I would like to talk with him about the life in Bethlehem. His name was Michael and he is 28 years old and has 2 kids. He took me back to the church and I went to see the cave where Marry gave birth to Jesus. The cave was quite small and simple. I made few pictures and went outside to look for some place to sleep. Right next to the church was a nice hotel for 30 USD. Michael came in and told me that he will show me some other hotel He drove me there in his car and after we stopped he was trying to sell me some necklaces. Since he was quite nice I bought 2 for 20 USD. The hotel was a bit cheaper but too touristy so I decided to come back. On the way I met 2 young guys. The told me that they are from Jenin. Both were still in school. One was Muslim and the other Christian and told me that they are good friends. I ask how expensive is it to merry in Palestine and they told me that it is minimum 5000 USD. I was getting hungry and I bought a falafel and I talk to the young guy. He told me that he is 17 years old and that his family lives in the US. He visited them but came back. As I was talking with him a Muslim woman with 5 kids came to buy some falafels. The girls were very quite and smiled at me and the woman asked me where I'm from and told me that her husband will like to talk with me and that he will come in 10 minutes form the barber. Is I passed another falafel restaurant I was invited for a tea. The name of the guy was Saliba and he told me that he is 30 years old and that his family came here in 1948 after they had to move from their city in the north and could never come back. His wish was also a peace in Palestine and normal life. Shortly husband of the lady I met before came and I walk with him and told him where Im from and about my travels. He invited me to come to his home next day and offered to picked me up in the morning. I was happy to have the possibility to visit Palestinian family. I went back to the Casa Nova hotel and got a room. There was a free Internet and after I finished I started t o talk to a man who was working at the reception. He is 28 zear4 old and hen he was 18 he married Japanese girl and has 2 kids. He grew up in the Christian orphanage and is body builder. He was interested to speak about religion and his belive and we were discussing our views until 2:30 in the morning. He was very interesting and he told me that his wish is to spread the teaching of Jesus.